New Routes



This is a list of some of the routes first climbed by CUMC members. Some of the routes are rather impressive. If you know of any new (or missed/forgotten) CUMC first ascents then please let a member of the committee know.

1912, Jun Route 1 Moderate Sheepbone Buttress
C.A. Elliott and party
1912, Jun Route 2 Difficult Sheepbone Buttress
C.A. Elliott and party
1912 Mitre Buttress Ordinary Moderate Grey Crag, Buttermere
C.A. Elliott and party
1913, Dec The Barn Door Moderate Eagle Crag
A.C. Pigou and party
1915, 4 Jul Mitre Buttress Direct Very Difficult Grey Crag, Buttermere
A.C. Pigou and party
1927, Mar Arête and Slab Climb Difficult Bochlwyd Buttress
C.H.S.R. Palmer
1927, Apr Alpha-Beta Route Glyder Fach
H.G. Wager, P. Lloyd, B.K. Harris
1927, 14 May Long Chimney Pitch 1 HS 4b East Face of Tryfan
Ivan M. Waller
Technically the crux pitch
1927, 7 Jun Belle Vue Bastion VS Tryfan
Ivan Waller, C.H.S.R. Palmer
1927, 11 Sep Fallen Block Crack VS Clogwyn-y-Ddisgl
Ivan Waller
1928, 28 May West Buttress VS Clogwyn d'ur Arddhu
J.L. Longland, A.S. Pigott, F.S. Smythe, W. Eversden, Morley Wood
1928, Jun Birch Tree Wall VS 5a Black Rocks
Jack Longland, Ivan Waller
The tree was originally indentified as a beech - by a future Director of Education. The tree subsequently disappeared in 1950.
1928, Jul Lone Tree Groove VS 4c Black Rocks
Ivan Waller
An ice axe was used to remove huge quantities of turf prior to the first ascent. Ivan was disappointed to reveal 'just an ordinary boot climb, quite long and interesting, but not at all difficult except at the start.' The route was originally called The Scoop and the Sine Nomine Exit (Ivan Waller July 1929) left it on the right.
1928 Purgatory Route Lliwedd
Jack Longland, L.R. Wager
1929 Birch Tree Sidle East Peak, Lliwedd
Jack Longland, G.L. Trevelyan
1929 Geography Climb Idwal Slabs
F.R.G. Chew, Miss Maud Gordon, R.C. Wakefield
The name is only readily intelligible to gentlemen of Trinity, where Sir Christopher's Wren's Library is adorned with four large female figures on the parapet, by some supposed to be Faith, Hope, Charity, and - she with the globe - Geography!
1930, Easter Javelin Blade E1 5b Holly Tree Wall, Idwal
Jack L. Longland
An outstanding lead that stood as the most difficult piece of Welsh climbing for many years, though few were aware of it.
"Quite frankly I'd lost my way. I'd come to the famous thread belay at the end of the first pitch of the normal route (Javelin Buttress VS), and I didn't know that the route ought to go right. I was a pole vaulter, which I think gives you pretty strong fingers, and I remember the pull-out onto the actual blade of the javelin was very strenuous; though not dangerous – I had a belay about 40 feet below me".
1930 Lean Man's Superdirect VS 4c Black Rocks
Alf Bridge, Ivan Waller, Jack Longland
Waller considered a lead of the route to be unjustifiable and consequently the route was left un-recorded and un-named for 15 years. It was repeated (in 1945), by Peter Harding who, thinking it to be a new route, gave the route its name.
1930 Bengal Buttress HVS 4c The Roaches
Ivan Waller
'Some characteristic holes near the left-hand corner mark the start and are followed to a small but good ledge. This is passed in favour of a higher ledge which is followed to the right with increasing respect. The improving angle deludes one into anticipating some relief, but in actual fact the sharp corner above provides an awkward and exposed finish' - 1951 guidebook.
1931, 9 Jul Youth Crack Diff Nant yr Ogof, Ogwen
J.M. Edwards, C.H.S.R. Palmer
1931, 10 Jul Square Chimney Buttress Severe East Buttress, Glyder Fach
C.H.S.R. Palmer, S.B. Darbishire
1931, 13 Jul Llyn HS 4a Clogwyn y Tarw, Ogwen
C.H.S.R. Palmer, J.M. Edwards
1931, 13 Jul East Wall Girdle VS Idwal
J.M. Edwards, C.H.S.R. Palmer
First climbed in boots.
1933, 23 Jul Hothouse Crack VDiff Clogwyn y Geifr, Ogwen
J.M. Edwards, C.H.S.R. Palmer
1933, 24 Jul Devil's Pipes HS Clogwyn y Geifr
J.M. Edwards, C.H.S.R. Palmer
Palmer climbed the lower tower later that year.
1935, 16 Jun Flat Chimney
J.M. Edwards, C.H.S.R. Palmer
1935, 25 Jun Steep Wall VDiff Gallt yr Ogof, Ogwen
C.H.S.R. Palmer
1936 Javelin Gully Direct Finish HS Idwal
Jack Longland
1937, 9 Aug Bivouac Buttress Diff Craig Lloer, Carneddau
C.H.S.R. Palmer
1937, 11 Aug Gnat's Gnose Severe Gallt yr Ogof, Ogwen
C.H.S.R. Palmer, J.A.B. Gray
1937, 13 Aug First Trinity Groove VDiff Craig Lloer, Carneddau
C.H.S.R. Palmer, J.A. Ingham
1937, 13 Aug Chimney Buttress Diff Craig Lloer
J.A. Ingham, C.H.S.R. Palmer
1937, 20 Aug Second Trinity Groove Severe Craig Lloer
C.H.S.R. Palmer, J.H. Buzzard
1937, 23 Aug Fence Climb VDiff Gallt yr Ogof, Ogwen
J.H. Buzzard, C.H.S.R. Palmer
1944, 26 Aug Skyline Chimney Diff Craig yr Ysfa, Carneddau
C.H.S.R. Palmer, J.M. Bechervaise
1944, 30 Aug The Overhangs VS Gallt yr Ogof, Ogwen
J.M. Bechervaise, C.H.S.R. Palmer
The variation was added much later, 18th September 1977, by Palmer. "Climbed alone, and as an elderly gent of my advanced age (72), I found some of the moves very difficult and the exposure considerable. But it amused me and might amuse a few others of my vintage".
1944, 30 Aug Crack and Wall VDiff Gallt yr Ogof, Ogwen
J.M. Bechervaise, C.H.S.R. Palmer
1944, 30 Aug Airy Corner Diff Gallt yr Ogof, Ogwen
C.H.S.R. Palmer, J.M. Bechervaise
1944, 6 Sep Giant's Steps Buttress VDiff Bristly Ridge, Ogwen
C.H.S.R. Palmer, J.M. Bechervaise
1944, 6 Sep Two Tower Buttress VDiff Bristly Ridge
C.H.S.R. Palmer, J.M. Bechervaise
1944, 6 Sep Great Tower Buttress Severe Bristly Ridge
C.H.S.R. Palmer
1944, 10 Sep The Chateau Severe Bristly Ridge
C.H.S.R. Palmer, J.M. Bechervaise, J.P. Walker and J.B. Williamson
1950, Sum Uncle’s Chimney Very Difficult Ben Alder
CUMC Party
1950, Sum Left-Hand Chimney Severe Ben Alder
CUMC Party
1952, 10 Jun Bloody Slab E3 5b Clogwyn Du'r Arddu
J. Streetly (1 P.A.)
Also previously known as Red Slab. The rest of the party were unable to follow. The hardest slab in Wales at the time and only Streetly's second climb on the cliff. One peg runner was inserted after 70 feet of climbing!
1954, 13 Jun Sickle VS Trilleachan slabs, Glen Etive
Eric D.G. Langmuir, M. J. O’Hara, J. A. Mallinson
1954 14 Jun Spartan Slab VS Trilleachan slabs, Glen Etive
Eric D.G. Langmuir, M. J. O’Hara, J. A. Mallinson (3 P.A.)
Rather better than their first route, a genuine classic.
1955, June North-Eastern Grooves VS The Minus Face, Ben Nevis
R.O. Downes, M.J. O’Hara, Eric. D.G. Langmuir.
Climbed over 2 days with one PA, climbed free on 11 Jun 1960 by Downes O’Hara and Prestige
1956, 11 June Minus One Direct HVS The Minus Face, Ben Nevis
R.O.Downes, M.J. O’Hara, M. Prestige (1 P.A.)
1956, 30 Aug Centurion HVS Carn Dearg, Ben Nevis
Don D. Whillans, R.O. Downes.
1956, 1 Sep The Shield Carn Dearg, Ben Nevis
Don D. Whillans, R.O. Downes
1957, 21 Jun The Ruritanian Climb Severe Garadh Na Ciste, Ben Nevis
CUMC Party
1967, May The Mushroom VS Craig-y-Rhaedr, Wales
M.R. Sinker, R.J. Isherwood (AL)
1967, May The Lobster VS Hen Cloud, Peak District
M.J. Guilliard, R. Whittacker
1967, Jun The Sewer HVS Craig-y-Rhaedr, Wales
M. Boysen, R.J. Isherwood (AL)
1967, Jun Kaleidoscope VS Carnmore Crag
G. Macnair, R. Jones (AL)
1967, Jun Connie-onnie VS Carnmore Crag
R. Jones, G. Macnair (AL)
1967, Jun The Sword VS Carnmore Crag
R.J. Isherwood, E. Birch
1967, Jun Penny Lane VS Carnmore Crag
E. Birch, R.J. Isherwood (AL)
1967, Jun Strawberry Fields VS Carnmore Crag
G. Macnair, R. Jones (AL)
1967, Jun Trampoline VS Carnmore Crag
R. Jones, G. Macnair (AL)
1967, Jun The Cracks VS Carnmore Crag
E. Birch, R.J. Isherwood (AL)
1967, Jun Compensation Severe A'Mhaighdean
R.J. Isherwood, E. Birch (AL)
1967, Jul The Curate's Egg VS Clogwyn-y-Ddysgl
R.J. Isherwood, C.H. Taylor (AL)
1967, Jul Hydra VS Esk Buttress, Lakes
R.J. Isherwood, C.H. Taylor (AL)
1967, Aug Aquila Severe Craig Na H'Iolaire, Torridon
J.L. Cardy, G. Halkyard
1967, 22 Oct The Cracks HVS 5a Gogarth, Anglesey
J.M. Kosterlitz, R.J. Isherwood (AL)
1968, May Mousetrap Zawn Girdle E2 5b Gogarth, Anglesey
M. Howells, J.M. Kosterlitz
1969 Long John's Slab E3 5c Froggatt
Al Rouse (solo)
First free ascent.
1970, Jun Gemini E4 5c Clogwyn Du'r Arddu
A. Rouse, L. Dickinson
Only the leader's second visit to the cliff!
1970, 19 Sep Vagrant VS Coire an Lochain, Cairngorms
M.G. Geddes, H.M. Gillespie
1970, 27 Dec Fairy Godmother III Creag Megaidh
M.G. Geddes, N.C. Raynor
1970, 28 Dec Ugly Sister III Creag Megaidh
M.G. Geddes, N. C. Raynor
1971, 15 Mar Aphrodite IV, 4 Three Gully Butress, Ben Nevis
M.G. Geddes, J.C. Higham
1971, Mar Positron E5 6a Gogarth, Anglesey
A.P. Rouse, P. Minks (5 P.A.)
Rouse flew off the route whilst Minks was rather more interested in the songs on the accompanying transistor radio.
1971, Apr Hadrian’s Wall Direct V, 5 Observatory Ridge, Ben Nevis
M.G. Geddes, G. E. Little (1 P.A.)
1971, 21 Dec Phoenix Buttress III Garbh Coire Mor, Braeriach
M.G. Geddes, J. S. Robinson
1972, Mar Right-Hand Route VI, 6 Minus Face, Ben Nevis
R. Carrington, Al Rouse.
1972, 11 Mar South Pillar IV, 4 Creagh Megaidh
R. Carrington, Al Rouse.
1972, 1 Jul The Sand Piper dir. Finish HVS The Stag Rocks, Cairngorms
M.G. Geddes, J.C. Higham
1973, Jan Nick the Neck VDiff Craig Cwrwgl, Ogwen
Nick J. Estcourt, C.T. Jones
"Much better than poncing back down those odious gullys".
1975, Wint The Citadel, Winter Var VI, 8 Shelter Stone crag, Cairngorms
Al Rouse, B. Hall
1975, May Aura E2 5b Craig yr Isfa, Carneddau
R. Carrington, Al Rouse, B.Hall
An utterly brilliant main pitch.
1975, Jun 29 Head for Heights E5 6b Clogwyn Du'r Arddu
C.J. Phillips, N.J. Estcourt (4 P.A.)
1976, Mar Left Edge Route VI, 5 Gardyloo Buttress, Ben Nevis
R. Carrington, Al Rouse. (1 P.A.)
1976 Neutrino E1 5b Gogarth, Anglesey
A.P. Rouse, B. Hall
1977, 29 Dec Sickle V, 5 Observatory Ridge, Ben Nevis
M.G. Geddes, B.P. Hall
1978, 21 Jan Albatross VII, 6 Indicator Wall, Ben Nevis
M.G. Geddes, C. Higgins
1978, 4 Feb Five Finger Discount IV, 4 Two Gully Buttress, Ben Nevis
M.G. Geddes, C. Higgins
1978, 11 Feb Shot in the Dark V, 5 Indicator Wall, Ben Nevis
M.G. Geddes, Al Rouse
1978, 12 Feb Route II Direct VI, 6 Carn Dearg Buttress, Ben Nevis
M.G. Geddes, Al Rouse
‘Then the headlamp came off. The wire tangled with slings, the slings tangled with the axe, and panic threatened.’ Despite an early start the climb was finished in the dark. Three pegs for tension were used, but an important ascent and probably Geddes finest contribution to Nevis.
1978, 25 Mar The Six-track Mono Blues II Meall Gorm, Applecross
M.G. Geddes, B.P. Hall, A. McIntyre, J. Porter
1978, 8 Apr Burrito’s Groove IV, 5 Two Gulley Buttress, Ben Nevis
M.G. Geddes, C. Higgins
1978, 14 Apr Galactic Hitchhiker VI, 5 Observatory Ridge, Ben Nevis
M.G. Geddes, C. Higgins
A tied-off knifeblade was used to enter the corner at the start of pitch 4. ‘Up and down I went on that awful peg, searching for adequate holds until my strength and warmth were almost gone. Finally I found enough…’
1978, 22 Apr Lepton E2 6b Curbar Edge
Al Rouse, Nick Colton, Rab Carrington
All soloed: later claimed by Ron Fawcett as Kaffleout.
1982-83 Groat (née Al's Arête) E1 6b Burbage North
Al Rouse, Richard Haszko
1983, 7 Oct Nicotine Stain E1 6b Burbage North
Al Rouse (solo)
1983, 4 Dec Dark Water E3 6b Stanage
Al Rouse, 'others'
1983, 6 Dec Findus HVS 5b Millstone Edge
Al Rouse, Phil Burke
1983, 7 Dec Quality Street E5 6b,6a Millstone Edge
Al Rouse, Phil Burke (AL)
1984, 15 Feb Reagent E5 6a Stanage
Al Rouse (solo)
1984, 3 Apr Andy Pollitt's Jacket E3 5c Curbar Edge
Al Rouse (solo)
Top-roped first. Named in honour of Andy's new 'freebie' jacket.
1984, Apr Make it Snappy E6 6c Gardom's Edge
Neil Foster, Al Rouse
1984, May Green Line HVS 5b Stanage
Al Rouse (solo)
1984, Sep Regret E2 5c Stanage
Al Rouse, Neil Foster
1984, 13 Oct Blind Date E5 7a Burbage North
Al Rouse
Al's finest hour. Eventually climbed in sections after many attempts. Soon after the first ascent, the boulder which just allowed a desperate 'splits' bridge to begin the route strangely migrated towards the crag making the start easier. This boulder has now gone altogether, thereby making the start appallingly difficult.
1984, 13 Oct Led A Dance HVS 5b Stanage
Chris Plant, Brian Davison, Alan Dance
Note the name of the third man.
1984, 14 Oct Rockhopper E1 5c Lawrencefield
B. Davison, S. Biskill
1984, 24 Nov Error of Judgement E1 5a Cilan Head, Lleyn Peninsula
R. Jones, B. Davison
1984, 16 Dec Fast and Bulbous E2 5b Park Banks Crag, Lower Churnet
Brian Davison, Richard Jones, Neil Horn
1984, 26 Dec Tough Guy V Tough-Brown Face, Lochnagar
A. Nisbet, B. Davison
First Winter Ascent
1984 The Wild and the Innocent E2 5b Kinder North Edge
Steve Payne, Robin Pakeman
1984 Uncertain Smile E1 5b Crag Caerfai, N. Pembroke
Richard Jones
1984 Sea Creature E4 6a Millstone Edge
Al Rouse, Andy Bailey
1985, 27 Apr Friendless HVS 5a,4b Cilan Head, Lleyn Peninsula
B. Davison, Ray Delaney
1985, 28 Apr Livingston I Presume VS 4c,4b Tyn Towyn Quarries, Lleyn Peninsula
B. Davison, R. Delaney
1985, 28 Apr Horus VS 4c Tyn Towyn Quarries, Lleyn Peninsula
B. Davison, R. Delaney
1985, 28 Apr Jivin Jaki VS 4c Tyn Towyn Quarries, Lleyn Peninsula
R. Delaney, B. Davison
1985, 7 May Wash and Brush Up E1 6b Millstone Edge
Al Rouse (solo)
1985, 12 May African Herbs E2 5c Stanage
Al Rouse, Richard Hazsko
1985, Jun Tower Block E3 6b Stanage
Al Rouse (unseconded)
1985, Aug Rockers E1 5c Burbage North
Al Rouse, Steve Sustad
1985 Al E4 5c Stanage
Al Rouse, Steve Bancroft
1986, 6 Jul Seal Clubbing E2 5c Dyers Lookout, Culm Coast
B. Davison, R. Jones, A. Smith
1986, 20 Jul Sunday Stroll Severe Tyn Towyn Quarries, Lleyn Peninsula
B. Davison, A. Smith, Alan Dick
1986, 26 Jul All Your Seasick Boaties, They Are Rowing Home Hard Difficult Crystal Slabs, Pembroke
Harry Adshead, Lewis Grundy, Pete Walker
1986, 27 Jul Time Flies By E4 5c Park Banks Crag, Lower Churnet
Brian Davison, Richard Jones
1986, 9 Aug Twrch Trwyth HVS 5a Penbwchdy
R. Jones, I. Hamilton
1986, 16 Aug The Necromancer E3 5c Tyn Towyn Quarries, Lleyn Peninsula
B. Davison, A. Smith
1986, 16 Aug White Magic Dust HVS 5b Tyn Towyn Quarries, Lleyn Peninsula
A. Smith, B. Davison
1986, 20 Sep Friends Essential E1 5b Chasm East, Isle of Man
B. Davison, A. Smith
1986, 20 Sep Scooper VS 4b Chasm East, Isle of Man
B.Davison, A. Smith
1986, 20 Sep In the Beginning E2 5b Chasm East, Isle of Man
B. Davison, A. Smith
1986, 20 Sep Moonburn HVS 4c Chasm East, Isle of Man
B. Davison, A. Smith
1986, 21 Sep Antartic Caterpillar E1 5c Bulgham Bay, Isle of Man
B. Davison, A. Smith
1986, 27 Sep Headless Donkey E2 5b Pembroke
Brian Davison, Andy Smith
1986, 27 Sep Gin and Woodbines HVS 5b Pembroke
Richard Jones, Ian Hamilton
1986, 12 Oct Anorexic Weirdo E6 6c Tyn Towyn Quarries, Lleyn Peninsula
B. Davison, R. Jones, A. Smith
1986, Sum Agrajat E5 6a Glen Cova
Chris Cracknell
1986, Sum Headspread E4 6a Glen Cova
Chris Cracknell
1986, Sum Catwalk E1 5a Glen Cova
Chris Cracknell
1987, 17 Jan Manx Wall V Clogwyn Du, Penbwchdy
Brian Davison, Gordon Scott