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The routes are all very popular, and when combined with the nature of Snowdonian rock this has led to many holds becoming extremely polished. It would be tedious for me to remark on this for every climb I mention, so I shall warn the reader now that the routes I describe, particularly in the lower grades, range from 'rather shiney' to 'ice rink'.
All of the best routes, including all described below, are of amenable grades and have good protection. Tryfan is an excellent place for inexperienced climbers to take their first steps in multi-pitch mountaineering.
Direct Route (VD) and Superdirect (HVS) are the two best lines of the right-hand half of the crag. My memories of the former are also watery, but large positive holds make this a popular first multipitch climb. The latter is a Welsh classic, a stunning four-pitch route. It comes highly recommended to me, though it still remains on my ticklist following a recent unsuccessful attempt. My partner fell off the first moves of Pitch 1, sustaining nasty bruising to his bottom that meant he was out of action for the rest of the weekend.
Reading this account, it occurs to me that perhaps I am a bad omen at Milestone and ought to be avoided there. You have been warned.
Grooved Arete (HVD) stands head and shoulders above any other route on the mountain in terms of its fame and notoriety amongst the current generation of CUMC climbers. Most who have attempted it have a story to tell, whether it be of falls, retreats or spending the whole day vainly searching for the start. It is common to see headtorches on the line well after dark. The route itself has only two awkward pitches, the rest of the climb consisting mainly of scrambling. These are the infamous 'Knight's Move'pitch, and the one before it, which I consider to be of at least equal severity. But then I would say that, because that's the one I fell off! The fall was an unusual one in that I brushed past my last runner as I slithered down the damp groove. The quickdraw snagged my clothing and when I came to a halt I was surprised to find its karabiner had clipped my trousers and boxer shorts through newly-made holes. Grooved Arete is particularly recommended after wet days or bank holiday weekends, when it is likely to prove profitable in terms of gear left behind by retreating parties.
Munich Climb(VS) is a very worthwhile route, though I can only honestly vouch for the first three pitches as we strayed from the line beyond this point. The route begins from half-way up South Gully, one of two large and damp gullies that split the East Face, and offers a wonderful view of the huge spike on First Pinnacle Rib (VD 4b!). The crux pitch of FPR is the Yellow Slab. Perhaps uniquely, the guidebook suggests that this may be avoided by a climbing a pitch of a harder grade (severe) than the usual route.
Bell Vue Bastion (VS) is a three-star classic and a CUMC route but I have not climbed it so I shall rely on Paul Williams' opinion that it is 'the best route on Terrace Wall with fine situations'. The first ascent, in 1927, was made by Ivan Waller to the accompaniment of gramophone music from the ledge below. The recent Ogwen guidebook includes a lovely photograph of him repeating his route several decades later.
Gashed Crag (VD), the most polished of Tryfan's many routes, is a climb that you will either love or hate. Climbers who prefer skilful technique, using footwork, guile and ability to conquer the problems, and all whose main experience has been on indoor walls, are advised to stay well away. However, I prefer to thrutch, jam, udge and struggle, so this route was right up my street. A series of chimneys and off-widths, seemingly designed to spit you off, the challenge is best met with enthusiasm, an open mind and a sense of humour.
Alan Dickinson.
The photos are: