CLASSIC ROUTES OF OUR TIME – NO. 17

One of the finest routes in the area, this classic climb has been a mountaineer’s testpiece since the days of Winthrop-Young. It’s difficulties should not be underestimated and an Alpine start is essential because of vigorous activity associated with the area in the mornings. The walk-in is not arduous – a mere 15 minutes from the road – the western approach being least fraught by objective danger. Start in the SE corner of the gloomy northern corrie.

1) Climb steep rock to a ledge on the right.

2) Traverse in to the base of the wall and follow the obvious drainage line.

3) Move easily right along the wide ledge to a cave belay beneath a pinnacle.

4) Climb to roof of cave, and up to the pinnacle.

5) Traverse north à cheval along an exciting ridge, particularly exposed to objective dangers. From the end climb up to a ledge and work rightwards to a short chimney.

6) Tricky bridging gains a good edge on the left. Layback up the slab to the crest of the ridge, being wary of. creaking flakes.

7) Crux. Follow the drainage channel to a difficult mantelshelf, then up the chimney past rattling chockstones. From the niche at the top make a very exposed step right to the base of a V-groove (good runners). Thin climbing up a pillar leads to a final airy move and good holds beneath the top (care with rock). Belay well back.

Purists will include an ascent of one of the pinnacles above the summit plateau, although this should not be contemplated during an electrical storm.

Abseil Descent.