It's been almost .html year with the CUMC and by all accounts it's been a good one, with the Club seeing a wide variety of activities, some of which (it has to said) threatened to make tenuous the otherwise strong connection the Club has with its traditional roots. However, the Club has survived unscathed (and is even richer for the experiences), though this is due in large part to a subduing of some of the more factional elements of the Club who saw fit to ride high on the wave of victorious competition.
In line with tradition, last summer saw many members on the annual Alpine pilgrimage (which incidentally has for some members with the more empty timetables become more like biannual). Not so in line with keeping were the epics notable only for their absence. That said, a great season was certainly had there. Among the many routes climbed were the North Face of the Petit Dru (Tim Loftus and Tom Bridgeland), the Walker Spur (Tim and Tom B. and later Tom Percival and me), the Cordier Pillar (Dave Hollinger and a St. Andrews lad), the Hornli Ridge (Mike Kendon) and the Gervasutti Pillar (Tom P. and me). The North Face of the Tour Ronde must have seen a record number of CUMC ascents that July. Doug Shepherd, together with Jamie Andrews from Edinburgh, climbed the North Faces of the Cima Ovest and the Piz Badile by the Cassin Routes. Tim and both Toms began the Traverse of the Aiguilles in the unusual but supposedly more aesthetically pleasing direction of North-South. Unfortunately this trip proved ill-fated, with Tom P. managing to fall off somewhere on the Grepon and receiving enough damage to his leg to warrant a hasty retreat by all three.
Meanwhile in the faraway Himalaya, our high altitude man, Martin Jackson, was busy working, ostensibly on some very important scientific work, but more obviously on the first ascents of Jung Minar (5750m), Pyramid Peak (6035m) and Peak A (6300m), all in the Kulu Valley in India.
Back home on our usually wet isle, the weather was surprisingly co-operative on our meets (with possibly a few notable exceptions such as at the Gower). In North Wales a fine procession of newcomers went up Grooved Arete on Tryfan. Cemetery Gates (E1 5b) was climbed by Dave Hollinger and an able second, while Random Rich got confused and peeled off on Stroll On (E3 6a). (Apparently he's casually cruised it recently). Kat Jones achieved her hardest lead to date with the redoubtable Cenotaph Corner (E1 5c), raising a few cynical old timers' eyebrows in the process. Other routes in that area, climbed at various times throughout the year, include Dream of White Horses (HVS 4c, climbed by many parties), Comes the Dervish (E3 5c - Stu Littlefair), The Moon (E3 5c - Doug and Rich) and The Big Groove (E3 5c - Doug and Jamie). For a few short seconds Matt Brown made a beautiful bird soaring off Nicky's Leap - that is until his bungled landing and bloody nose.
Together with a notable first place at the National University Bouldering Competition, Yorkshireman Stu Littlefair made sure he kept on top of things with his solution of Ollies Roof (Fr 8b+) and his ascent of All Our Yesterdays (E5 6a), both at Almscliff. Not content with this, he continued up more equally hard routes further South with John Stark (for example, The Knock [E5 6a] at Burbage).
In the Peaks and further North the two Valkyries (VS 4c/VS 5a) proved popular, and many other classic lines were climbed. These included The Sloth (HVS 5b) and Right Unconquerable (HVS 5b - Mat Hartley and Matt Brown). Another attempt at The Sloth was made in full winter condition (for which I thank Stu), but this had to be abandoned after the first pitch. Coming back to the Roaches, Dave climbed Elegy (E2 5c), and on .html occasion we met the Oxford University Club at Froggatt for a Varsity meet.
During the Christmas vacation a large group from the CUMC joined members of the Edinburgh University Club for a memorably hot two weeks in Mallorca. At the same time others were skiing in the Alps, while Dave Toms headed for Scotland with a minibus of hopefuls (and the weather didn't disappoint them).
Similar to last year, the distance was no deterrent for those delighting in Scottish ice in term-time. At Craig Meaghaidh the weather was perfect, but sadly the adjective cannot extend to describe the conditions. Consequently a benightment was had. The opposite scenario occurred in the Northern Corries: appalling weather but wonderful conditions. That weekend The Seam (IV, 4 - Dave Hollinger and Ben Bardsley) was climbed, as was Fluted Buttress Direct (IV, 5 - Leyla Pope and me), among many other routes in Coire an t-Sneachda. Finally, just before the end of Lent term, Dave and I were lucky to catch Point Five (V,5) in nick.
Over Easter many of us went on to Cornwall on what has become a brilliant annual meet. Between us we must have climbed most of the great classic lines again at Bosigran (such as Little Brown Jug [VS 5a], Anvil Chorus [HVS 4c], Suicide Wall [E1 5c], Bow Wall [E2 5b]), Chair Ladder (Pegasus [HS], Diocese [VS 5a], Bishop's Rib [E1 5b]), and at Sennen (Demo Route [HS], Dextrose [HVS 5a]). A few furtive excursions were also made to more esoteric cliffs.
This is only a small but representative sample of where the Club has been and of what has been done. Of course, the year has also been spiced with many formal halls, barbecues and such like, not to mention the outrageous mulled wine party which will always remain, I think, a pleasant blur in our memories. But the fun is not over! Our Annual Dinner is fast approaching - this year to be held in 'The Heights', Llanberis - and soon it will be time again to pack for .html season in the Alps. And after that? Well - yet .html CUMC cycle of good times, climbs and company.