FALLING OFF CALEY

Matt Hartley

(Matt has been a regular on trips this year. Especially since passing the Homerton minibus test. Frightening novices on the way to the crags seems to get Matt in the mood for climbing. On the committee his competence as treasurer came as some surprise!)

Early October. The traditional carnage of Fresher's Week is almost over, the traditional tales of Alpine exploits have been told to the assembled hordes at the Panton Arms, and the first CUMC trip of the year is heading for Yorkshire.

For once the weather's perfect. The casual observer at Caley would have been appalled to note a minibus arrive and disgorge its load of rampantly exuberant climbers, shattering the Sunday morning peace. Matt and I opt to start the day on Angel's Wall, a three-star HVS with an official recommendation from Stu, who shows us just how good it is by soloing it barefoot while Matt gears up. Maybe he's been here before... Matt makes short work of the route, and I follow - big swings on bigger jugs, undercut, long reach, top. It's good to be back on the rock.

We wander up to the main crag. The rock is a beautiful shade of green, a fact not appreciated by Dave, leading classic Noonday Ridge - he doesn't seem to like the idea of friction moves on slime! My lead, and I opt for the not-so-classic Storm in a Teacup. After a serious attempt at the prestigious CUMC 'Inelegant Manteshelf 1995' award, I'm looking at a very long stretch and a high step onto an undercut (and, need I say it, green) slab. Much dithering and faffing with runners ensues. Dave tops out. Time to get on with it.

"Watch me, Matt." Stretch - hold's not as big as I'd like - can't get both hands on it., Feet up, pull, go! Stand up, why don't my arms work? Panic!! I've got to swap hands on this hold... get in balance... strength running out... one last go...

Bang, Ouch.

"Matt? Are you OK?"

Maybe I should open my eyes now.

"Matt?"

Matt sounds concerned. Maybe I should answer him...

"Are you OK?"

"Uh... yeah."

"You're upside down, Matt"

He's right. Maybe I should do something about that too.

"Uh, yeah. Let me down."

Stu appears round the corner.

"What the fuck was that bang?"

Cheers. Why don't I remember anything between losing the hold and finding myself upside down in a holly tree?

"Are you having .html go at it?"

"Nope. Why don't you Matt?"

So he does, the fool. He can't do the move either, which is immensely gratifying. A top rope is set up, I have .html go. First time - maybe it's not that bad after all? But it's always easier on a top rope.

Enough 'hard' climbing for one day. The rest of the day passes... a somewhat less than pure ascent of a hard finger crack, a couple of easier routes, some bouldering, some lying around in the sun... I like this game. Even if it does hurt occasionally.