Pike's Crag, Easter 1925
THERE has been a series of lectures throughout the year which have covered a wide range of districts, as the following shows.
During the October Term Mr. S. Constable (O.U.M.C.) read on "Climbing in the Valais"; Mr. A. E. Field on "The English Lake District"; Mr. D. R. Pye on "The Dolomites"; and Mr. B. R. Goodfellow on "Climbing in Scotland." During the Lent Term Mr. G. W. Young read on " Ridges and Failures "; Mr. G. A. Solly on " The Caucasus "; Mr. Charles Brook on "The Dauphine Alps." During the May Term Mr. Walter Weston read on " The Eiger Joch without Guides "; and finally in the October Term Mr. H. E. L. porter read on the "New Zealand Alps"; Mr. A. E. Storr on "The Pyrenees"; and Mr. C. M. Sleeman on "Climbing in the Tyrol."
As the Easter meet of the previous year was held in North Wales, in 1925 it was in the Lake District. On March 23rd, eighteen members of the Club settled down in varying degrees of luxury at Wasdale Head. Some of us inhabited a barn at Burnthwaite, others camped in the usual places near Ritson's Force, while the more opulent stayed either at the Hotel, Burnthwaite, or Middle Row.
The weather was at first cold with intervals of wind and sleet, but the sun was never far away. The gullies were well filled with snow or ice, and gave ample opportunity for the use of the axe. After five days the sun shone brightly, cleared all the Napes Ridges of snow, and made them dry and warm, and here all the ropes assembled.
For interesting snow conditions, however, Scawfell claimed superiority., and in Deep Ghyll there remained only ten feet of the first pitch, while the second was practically non-existent. Broad Stand was covered by a thin layer of ice, and was by no means an easy way down. C. and D. gullies, Pike's Crag, were also conquered, the former on one occasion involving operations which would have been made much easier had the leader carried a windlass. Skew Ghyll was found to be an interesting and amusing route to the Great End gullies on which some attacks were made. Van Noorden and Thomas on the first day, were turned in Cust's gulley by a young avalanche, though it was climbed later.
Pillar, with the High Level track in itself a mountaineering expedition, was covered in snow, the short climbs on the East side, together with Shamrock Buttress, being found the best for those new to climbing.
The sixth day, sunny and dry, was spent by all on the Napes Ridges. The top block of the needle offered its limited space to several strangers, and photographers rejoiced at the opportunity offered by parallel parties on the three ridges.
During the day Van Noorden and Thomas looked down from some threequarters of the way up the Ling Chimney, to welcome the as yet clean-shaven secretary, who had just arrived with Dr. Clark-Kennedy. A few minutes later a second glance showed them already "girdling" the Needle. Some few had to leave early on the last day, and the secretary volunteered to take the remainder of Van Noorden's and Thomas's ropes, enabling them with Dr. Clark-Kennedy to wander over to Pillar.
While contentedly scrambling up after "doing " the North East climb, Mayo was seen on the top of Shamrock Buttress with a green and anxious face. It appeared that he was just recovering from the shock of hearing a dull thud after some re-roping, and with relief had seen, at the bottom of the climb, one of the member's rucksacs instead of the member himself, At the end of the day this accident was the means of discovering an unfamiliar recipe for a very attractive compound - bananas and ginger.
So ended a most cheerful and successful meet. Not that the general standard of the climbs was of any great difficulty, for weather, if nothing else, prevented this; but those new to climbing left with a burning desire to be at grips with the rocks again.
At Christmas several members went to Norway and others to Scotland where ski-ing took the place of rock-climbing. After the Easter meet two parties went to the Ben Nevis district, where a three days' attempt on the Tourer Ridge failed because of the snow conditions, and despite nine hours actually on the ridge on the last day. An account of the Summer meet is given separately, but both before and after the meet there were climbing parties in Wales and the Lake District.
The officers for 1925-1926 are: President, L. R. Wager (Pembroke); Honorary Secretaries, P. D. Thomas (Emmanuel) and F. C. Mayo (Pembroke); Honorary Treasurer, J. L. Longland (Jesus).